Platea Restaurant

A place with a splendid view of the city and the lake

Como, Italy. December 2021

I started writing about Como, the lake and the area of the other pre-alpine lakes, because I felt a strong desire to share my experiences of living in these beautiful places.

For this reason, I think you will not be surprised, dear readers, to learn that this one at the Platēa restaurant (they write it just like that) is also a return, on the occasion of the lunch that I am going to describe in this article.

(Como, Italy. From the floor of the Platēa restaurant, a glimpse of the city center. All photographs are © by Susanna Pagani).

The restaurant occupies the premises of what for a long time was called Terrazzo Perlasca, then - I think also in conjunction with a change of ownership - for about ten years Borgo Sant'Agostino, and now, since a few months, Platēa.

We are in Piazza De Gasperi at number 8, a few steps from the funicular railway that connects Como and Brunate. In this area, of great residential and touristic value, there are many public places: bars, restaurants, ice-cream shops... There is a lot of competition.

The restaurant Platēa has a large outdoor area, very much used when the environmental temperatures allow it. A curiosity: since time immemorial this square has been a parking lot for cars. Only in more recent times, the three restaurants that directly overlook it have been allowed to use (one third each) the large space in front of them.

On the day of my visit, the temperature was freezing and a puller encouraged potential patrons to enter. Once inside, one ascends a narrow staircase. Upon reaching the floor, the kitchen, partially exposed, and place settings share the same large open space.

The sun's rays came through the large windows overlooking the lake and warmed the first row of tables. I chose the shade, in the third row. Since there were only a few of us, and I didn't have anyone between me and the openings, my gaze could equally embrace the entire panorama: on one side the city by the lake and the port; in the middle the breakwater, The Life Electric and the Tempio Voltiano; on the other side the widening of the first basin of the lake and Villa Olmo in the background.

The service in this restaurant has always been accurate. I began frequenting the place when it was still called Borgo Sant'Agostino. The new ownership (or just management? I don't know. I'll ask) has improved (it wasn't easy) service and cuisine.

I came here for lunch, to look at the view outside during the meal. I wasn't planning on getting any particular dish. I came with a clear mind and trusting in the inspiration of the moment. Finally, I decided quickly: capricciosa pizza and white beer.

I'm off to wash my hands. The facilities are more than decent and clean. There is a changing table to change diapers for small children.

Meanwhile, people were arriving. In the moment of maximum affluence it came to occupy something more than a third of the available places.

I noticed an unbalanced couple: she was flashily dressed, equipped with pouty lips, had lunch wearing sunglasses. I couldn't tell if she was a beautiful woman or if she was faking it. Her man had a very large waist, was dressed in jeans, perhaps a rich man, or presumed to be so; dressed and posed aware of not having to prove anything: he has at his side the doll of twenty years younger who speaks for him. In Como it happens more than elsewhere to see couples assorted in an unusual way.

The pizza arrives, looking rich. It is good. The filling consists of tasty products. A special mention goes to the capers, nice and big and tasty. The beer, a Kühbacher Schloss Weizen, bottled, is properly opened at the table. I appreciate beer, drinking almost all varieties. My favorites are definitely the white ones.

Almost all patrons chose pizza. A case, or not?

I close with a coffee, pay the bill (25.50 euros) and say goodbye. I go down the stairs, I find myself outdoors. It's cold, it's windy, the umbrellas are closed and the tables are empty. There is sun, there is the lake, it's a beautiful day.

(Como, Italy. Platēa Restaurant. Capricciosa pizza and Kühbacher Schloss Weizen beer).

(Como, Italy. Platēa Restaurant. The coffee).